Varieties of Mice. Lab name: (non- agouti) Brindled. Fancier name: Brindled, Sex Linked Brindle, X- Brindle, English Brindle, etc. Genotype: a/a Mobr/* Note that Brindled is Sex linked. Homozygous Brindled is lethal as well as brindled bucks. Chromosome: Brindled is on the X chromosome. Originated: Spontaneous mutation (point mutation) Show class: Brindle. General description: Striped similar to a tiger from head to tail. Less define stripes on the belly. The BRC Show Diary is for Guidance only. Secretaries & Chairmen Please See Rules B1 – B4. Shows with Pet Classes are shown (Pet Class) -. Rabbit Rescue & Boarding, Guinea Pig, Ferret, Rat & Hamster Boarding in Essex, Kent & London Small Animals Boarding welcomes you to our. Interested in joining The British Rabbit Council - Join Here! As a member of the BRC you will receive the following: Articles of Constitution & Rules. They can be any color with eyes to match. Stripes on English brindles usually get wider with age. These Brindled mice do not have the same health issues as Brindle (description above). The health of the females is the same as any other mouse. They are, however, sex linked. This means that outside of a lab, only females survive. Males suffer from copper deficiency, anemia. They appear similar to himalayan mice, with points. However, these points are part of their skin (where as a himalayan has pointed fur, not skin). They also tend to have extremely curly (spiral) whiskers regardless of coat type. Note that the white spotting on the mouse pictured is piebald s/s and NOT a part of the brindled pattern. Raising Rabbits - The Basics. Raising Rabbits is Fun. Rabbits are fun to raise except when you have to go out and take care of them at 1. Considering this is the exception rather than the rule, we'll assume that, generally speaking, they are fun to raise. You may have different reasons for raising them - enjoyment, education, business, show, laboratory, meat, fur, and the bi- products they produce, such as fertilizer and fishing worms. Only a small minority of those who raise rabbits are capable of making a living out of it. Consider it, rather, an enjoyable hobby that can help pay for itself. Learn more about the English Angora Rabbit Breed. Discover cool facts, pictures, resources and find information about caring for English Angora Rabbits.Our club is all about Angora Rabbit Breeders, Lovers and Learners! Everything about Angoras! Connect with others, show, learn, enjoy and make the most of your Angora. Raising rabbits gets in your blood. Once you've had some good rabbits, you want to keep them around. I found that when I was raising too many and didn't have enough markets, the rabbits were eating me out of house and home. And so I got rid of them - - for a while. I then took up the hobby again because I found it was in my blood to raise rabbits. The low membership fee includes a very good booklet on raising rabbits. It lists all of the recognized domestic breeds of rabbits along with their characteristics. Membership in ARBA includes a subscription to Domestic Rabbits magazine that supplies you with helpful articles on rabbit raising. Each year you will also get a booklet listing the more than 3. ARBA members and their addresses. You will easily find rabbit fanciers living close to you. A rabbit wins a grand championship when it has won first place in three rabbit shows. Having a grand champion is valuable. Not only does the rabbit's monetary value go up, but also its offspring are considered valuable. ARBA's web site also lists shows throughout the United States. Find a show near you and go to it. You'll learn a great deal there. Watching the judges, you will find what they consider good qualities in each particular breed. By exchanging information with other breeders, you can learn techniques that work. Shows are great places to shop for rabbits. You can find the breed(s) you would like to raise by seeing the rabbits up close and asking the owners what experiences they have had with them. Without knowing a rabbit's ancestry, neither it nor its offspring to the fourth generation may become grand champions. You risk getting a mixed rabbit (one that is not of a specific breed), a low quality specimen of a particular breed that someone knew was poor and sold it as a pet, or a rabbit that has serious genetic defects. The principle of only buying animals with a pedigree applies anywhere. When acquiring a dog, why get a mutt, even though it might be free, when you can buy a pedigree whose offspring you can sell for more than five times the price you paid? You may also later decide to raise rabbits on a larger scale. Having a pedigree certificate ensures that you are starting out right. When breeders give you a pedigree certificate, they are putting their reputation on the line. They are guaranteeing the background of the rabbit, specifying themselves as the owners, and authenticating it by their signature. Also, unless they're stupid, they're not going to knowingly sell you a defective rabbit. They wouldn't stay in business long. Those that cannot provide a pedigree certificate may not be an expert raising rabbits. They may knowingly or unknowingly sell you one that is sick or has a genetic defect. Usually they are not very helpful in getting you started right. Stick with recognized breeders of pedigree rabbits that will provide you with a certificate. It is best to buy from a reputable person. Try getting a recommendation from someone who shows rabbits. They usually know the good breeders. A registered rabbit is one which an ARBA licensed registrar has examined and certified as free from defects and disqualifications. The registrar has determined that the rabbit is healthy and a good representation of the breed. The registrar examines the rabbit's pedigree for completeness and accuracy. A copy of the rabbit's pedigree is forwarded to ARBA. Though inaccuracies can also be present with registered rabbits, the chances are better that you will get a better rabbit. As for myself, I'm not satisfied with just one breed. I want representatives from several. I have Netherland Dwarfs in shades of white, black, chinchilla, chestnut, chocolate, and sable. I have white New Zealands, Californians, Rex in shades of white, black, lilac, chestnut, and broken (spotted). I also have Champagne D'Argents, chocolate English Spots, and black Silver Martens. I am planning on buying some Satins in the colors red, copper, and Siamese. I also want to purchase some more Netherland Dwarfs in the colors Himalayan, smoke pearl, black tan, and broken. In some breeds, the individual fur characteristics are combined. The main fur types are. Angora - The fur grows very long and is shaved or plucked and woven into yarn to be used in making Angora sweaters, hats, and mittens. The long haired rabbits can become a real problem for the casual rabbit breeder. Their fur has a tendency to matt and shed. It's a real bear trying to clean the cages that have long hair everywhere. The hair also floats out and settles on anything in your rabbitry. It is used to make fine fur coats and hats. It is used also to make fine fur coats and hats. Rarely will you find a fur coat made with these because of the problem of matching the patterns and colors. They are sometimes found in small furred items. Certain color patterns are sought for by judges when showing these types of rabbits. They include. Britannia Petite (White, black, black otter, or chestnut agouti) 1- 1/2 - 2- 1/2 lbs. Dwarf Hotot (White with black around its eyes) 2 - 3 lbs. Jersey Wooley (Many colors - Angora wool) 2 - 3- 1/2 lbs. Netherland Dwarf (Many colors) 1- 3/4 - 2- 1/2 lbs. Polish (Black, blue, chocolate, blue eyed white, ruby eyed white, and broken) 2 - 3- 1/2 lbs. These rabbits, as a group, are less than 3- 1/2 pounds mature. These are the rabbits you will want to raise if you want small pets that don't consume much feed (about 1/3 to 1/2 cup per day) and take up the least amount of cage space (about 2- 1/2 sq ft). Many times, these are the only rabbits that pet stores will buy. You can expect to fetch about $7. The pet store will turn around and sell them for about $3. When you sell to other breeders and provide a pedigree, you can expect from $1. Price depends on the rabbit's show background, quality, and heritage, including the production characteristics of its parents. The Netherland Dwarf has the most ARBA- recognized colors and patterns of all the breeds. If you're into variety, you can't go wrong with Netherland Dwarfs. This combination occurs in 2. The one having this gene usually dies within 4 days after birth. Many of them resort to scratching or biting you when you put your hand into their cage. It could be that they are more afraid than the larger breeds, just as chihuahua dogs have a nervous fight- back tendency. They consider these problems as challenges. Dwarf rabbits are in great demand because of their popularity with young people. This, coupled with the lower litter rate, explain why they command a higher price than other rabbits. They vary from about 2- 1/2 to 5 pounds. These rabbits consume between 1/3 and 2/3 cup of feed per day and take up 3- 1/2 sq ft of cage space. The small breeds have characteristics between the dwarfs and the medium size breeds. They usually have 1 - 3 more babies in their litters than the dwarfs and do not carry the possibly lethal dwarf gene. However, they are still more susceptible to death from coccidiosis than the larger breeds. A few pet stores will carry these small breeds and you can expect perhaps $2. They may only take them during Easter. Check with your local stores. Sales to other breeders will command similar prices to the medium size rabbits, about $2. The small breeds consist of. American Fuzzy Lop (Many colors - Angora fur - Lop Ears) 3 - 4 lbs. Dutch (The feet, front half of torso and face are white, the other parts can be black, blue, chocolate, tortoise, steel, or brown- gray) 3- 1/2 - 5- 1/2 lbs. Himalayan (White with colored ears, nose, feet, and tail of black, blue, lilac, or chocolate) 2- 1/2 - 4- 1/2 lbs. Holland Lop (Lop ears - Many colors) 2- 1/2 - 4 lbs. Mini Rex (Rex coat - Many colors) 3 - 4- 1/2 lbs. Medium Size Breeds. The next group of rabbits make up the medium size breeds. This group is characterized by weights ranging from 4- 1/2 to 7 pounds mature. These rabbits consume between 1/2 and 1 cup of feed per day and take up 5 sq ft of cage space. Usually, pet stores don't want these breeds except possibly around Easter. The medium breeds produce an acceptable amount of meat on small bones. Some commercial meat rabbit breeders raise these breeds. But they usually prefer the next group - the meat rabbits, because the feed- to- meat conversion ratio is apparently better. Usually, those that raise the medium size rabbits like to show them and eat the ones that don't make the grade. Some of these rabbits are raised for their fur as well. On the whole, it is harder to sell these rabbits except to other fanciers of like mind. You can expect about $2. They are characterized by weights between 8 and 1. These rabbits are raised for both meat and fur. Some of these may also be considered fancy rabbits because they have unusual fur, color, or ear characteristics. Most of these rabbits are shown a great deal. Rabbits in the meat group consume about 1- 1/4 cup of feed per day and take up 7- 1/2 sq ft of cage space. They will command a price comparable to the medium size rabbits, about $2. The rabbits that make up the meat group include. American (Blue or White) 9 - 1. Beveren (Black, Blue, or White) 8 - 1. Californian (White with black ears, nose, feet, and tail) 8 - 1. Champagne D'Argent (Starts as black, mature is silver) 9 - 1. American Chinchilla 9 - 1. Cinnamon 8- 1/2 - 1. Creme D'Argent 8 - 1. Hotot (White with black around its eyes) 8 - 1. English Lop (Many colors - giant lop ears) 9 - 1. French Lop (Many colors - regular lop ears) 1.
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